337km (209 miles) NW of Hanoi; 37km (23 miles) E of Lao Cai

Sapa is a small market town that has been a gathering spot for many local hilltribes for nearly 200 years. Hmong and Dao people, among others, still come here to conduct trade, socialize, and attend an ephemeral "love market," where young men and women choose one another for marriage (these days, its unlikely youll see anything more than a staged re-creation of it). But seeing this as early as 1860, French missionaries said "Mon Dieu!" and set up camp to save souls; their stone church still stands sentinel and is well attended at the center of town. Sapa, with its mercifully cool climate, became a holiday escape for French colonists, complete with rail connection, upscale hotels, and a tourist bureau as early as 1917. The outpost was retaken by the Vietnamese in 1950, attacked and destroyed later by the French, and left in ruin, only brief occupied by Chinese troops in 1979. The town reopened for tourism in the 1990s.

Now connected by luxury train with Hanoi, Sapa boasts good accommodations and is a great jumping-off point for trekking and ecotours. Even a 1- or 2-day trip, bracketed by overnight train journeys from Hanoi, will give you a unique glimpse of local hilltribe culture. Trek out to nearby villages with or without a guide, or meet with the many hilltribe people who come to town to sell their wares.

The Tonkinese Alps are a feast for the eyes; hills striated by terraced rice farms in vast, green valleys are like a stairway up to Mount Fansipan, which is Southeast Asia"s tallest mountain at 3,143m (10,312 ft.). Climbing Fansipan is a multiday trip, requiring a guide and gear -- best arranged through one of the tour operators listed, and only for the hearty. Note: Bring a few layers; it can get quite chilly here, especially in the winter months.

Sapa has gotten busy, and 2004 saw nearly 70,000 visitors (up from just 20,000 in 1996). Concerns are even coming from Hanoi that the growth in tourism is unsustainable and does not benefit local people but instead lines the pockets of slick financiers. Steps are underway to ensure that the lives and customs of people here are not devastated, and you can do your part by educating yourself about some hilltribe traditions -- be very cautious around any animistic totems, ask before taking photos, be careful where your money goes, and try not to encourage a culture of begging.